![]() The problem is I can not share most of my projects because of NDA agreements. They haven't given up on me) was to pick the brain of the community. The suggestion from Ultimaker (who is still helping me with this by the way. I have tried different densities, patterns, support roof thicknesses, etc. And I mean bad enough surface to the point where it becomes un-presentable to my customer. If I go any further with the support structure in the Z than the material that is supposed to be supported by the support structure has too much room for creating a bad surface. Problem is, I do mostly parts that are shelled out in the back and surrounded by material around the supports. I have had minimum success with this distance if I have a part that has supports that are easily reachable and not surrounded by the rest of the part. 1 for that distance, the support is so hard to remove from the part that I end up destroying some of the part in the process of removal. However, anything that needs support structures will not turn out very nice. Since then I have been able to fine tune my prints so that anything that does not need support structures will print very nicely and be very presentable for the customer. After much research, I settled on the Ultimaker based on the information available at that time. I design parts for a living and decided that instead of sending all these parts out to Protolabs or places like that, I should buy a 3D printer and do them myself, thereby retaining that lost revenue. I have yet to find an acceptable solution. This will increase the surface in contact with the bed, so the object will stick better.I have been working with the experts at Ultimaker to find the best settings for the support structures when printing PLA (or anything for that matter) with the Ultimaker. Plus it makes a big platform on which the object can be printed. This way if there is a problem for the first layers, it will just affects the raft and not the object. ![]() Stay close to your printer when it is printing the first layer to make sure everything is fine, then once it has been printed go back to the normal speed. Lower the speed for the first layers, for example X0.5 or even lower. If the it is too far, the print will tends to detach. Make sure the hotend is at a correct height from the bed. What to do if the object does not stick well to the bed? With PLA and the bed at 60☌ it works perfectly. ![]() But tends to unstick and you have to change it more often. What type of bed? I have tried the following: To finish I'd like to give you some tips that I found really useful about print bed adhesion. The support distance from the object (see step 6) Therefore I have focused on the parameters that seem the most important for me: Just drag the mouse on one grey tab (for example "Quality"), click on the small gear that appears, and tick or untick the settings you want.Īs you can see, there are a huge amount of settings and it would take days to test everything. ![]() In "Print Setup: Advanced" you can add more settings. it has many advanced settings that allows a lot of choices for the print.īellow is an image of what the setting interface looks like.If I have to conclude about Cura 2 and why I am using it: I have also tried Meshmixer and its "tree supports": the branches are interesting but I got some problems because the supports were not placed where they were supposed to. I have tried Cura 15 (which is actually the former version of Cura 2) but it has way less settings. ![]() To find the best support settings I am using Cura 2. Changing the interface distance from the object.In long (because some of you might want to see how I have found these settings), here are all the steps: Interface distance from the object: 0.2mm.In short (because some of you just need the settings), here are the main settings I found to be perfect: The goal is to get the best surface finish, as smooth as possible, and the minimum post-processing to try avoiding sanding.Īlso make sure to read this article, you'll learn many important things about supports. I have tested many settings on the slicer software Cura 2, and came out with great results so I'll share them with you. But it is really a pain in the annoying to search for the perfect settings, so the supports are easy to remove, and the object not deformed by the supports. Supports in 3D printing are essential to print objects with overhanging parts. ![]()
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